Unique Aspects of Japan
Japan is known for its ancient traditions and its futuristic technology, which often sit side by side and oddly complement each other.
Take Toilets as an Example
Most toilets are Western style but Asian squat toilets still exist. I was surprised to see the full range of toilets still being offered at one of the oldest and smartest department stores in Tokyo, Nihombashi Mitsukoshi. I had the choice of a hole in the floor (literally, a squat job with splashes!) or an American style toilet or a Japanese designed one with heated seats, warm water spray, with options to change the pressure or angle of the water, a deodoriser, a choice of background music or a flushing sound and a built-in bidet. One had to be very careful not to press the wrong button or you could be in for a wet surprise!
But my husband had even more. Installed in his urinal was a built-in pressure sensor on the floor and a screen above the urinal offering a variety of games. One game called Mannekin Pis (after the famous sculpture in Brussels) simply measured how hard you urinate. In another game, you were a gust of wind trying to blow a girl’s skirt up! The harder you urinate, the harder the wind blows. There are even games where you compete with your neighbour. Weird!
Then there are the Pets in Prams
Visit any park in Japan mid-morning and you are likely to see a group of ladies chatting around their baby prams. Look closely and you will see that these prams don’t contain infants but pet dogs: poodles, terriers, schnauzers, yorkies, miniatures as well as pet toys. You could say that Japan is literally going to the dogs! They are coiffed, groomed, bedecked with jewellery, colourfully dressed in designer labels in the most individual way.
In fact, I can’t recall ever seeing a dog actually walking - they were either in prams, inside shoulder bags, in special trolleys for larger dogs, in backpacks or being carried. There are special dog cafes, hot springs that offer dog massages, luxury dog havens that offer organic food, ayurvedic beauty treatments and celebrity hair stylists, some with two months’ waiting lists.
Then there are the Traditional Pursuits
Traditional pursuits like ikebana (flower arranging), kabuki (dance drama), chanoyu (tea ceremony) and sumo wrestling (150kg guys wrestling each other wearing very little) are still hugely popular alongside more recent popular pursuits such as manga (comic books) anime (animation) and Pachinko parlours (pinball machines).
In Tokyo, I took day courses in ikebana and chanoyu. I also spent a day at a sumo training stable where I learnt about the extremely regimented lives of the wrestlers, where everything, from their meals, how they dress, the length of their hair, what time they wake, what chores they do, how they behave in public is dictated by strict tradition. When I learned of the negative health effects (diabetes, high blood pressure, arthritis, early dementia, and a much shorter lifespan) I questioned why this sport was allowed to continue.
While in Tokyo I went to see a Sumo match (tickets are hard to get). OMG! I was sitting ringside and was almost run over by one of these hulks. He was pushed out of the ring, lost his footing, and almost crashed into me. Sumo may seem comical to you and me, but it is actually a very serious business. A sumo match doesn’t start until both wrestlers have placed both hands on the ground at the same time. This leads to quite a lot of faffing about while each wrestler tries to psyche the other out, pretending to put his hand down and then getting back up again.
Once they finally do begin, it is very rare for sumo bouts to last longer than a few seconds – although occasionally they last up to four minutes. This means that the action is very fast-paced and exciting. A match ends when one of the wrestlers is either thrown out of the ring, or if any part of his body, apart from the soles of his feet, touches the ground.
The Daily Interactions
Japan’s culture is all about respect and social customs. While instinctive to most Japanese people, things like taking off shoes, bowing, and following strict bathing etiquette can feel like a whole new world for the unaccustomed traveller.
In general, Japanese people refrain from body contact during everyday interactions. This goes for kisses, hugs, and handshakes used as greetings, as well as other public displays of affection. While body contact is not totally frowned upon, different levels of intimacy are expected depending on how well you know someone.
Greeting and Bowing in Japan
Japanese people bow as a form of greeting. Taxi drivers, train conductors, bus drivers, receptionists, bankers, shop assistants will all bow as a formalised show of respect. Depending on the level of formality of the situation, the depth of the bow differs.
Bowing isn't necessary for non-Japanese people but a courteous nod or bow of the head when greeting someone or entering and leaving an establishment will go a long way.
Taking off Shoes Inside
There is an entrenched culture of taking off shoes. I must confess I found this annoying. Yes, yes, I know it is their culture and I should just go with the flow, but you can easily have to remove your shoes 3-6 times per day depending on where you go. A tip - having easy-to-slip-on shoes will make life easier. No lace-ups. Plus make sure your socks are free of holes! Definitely wear socks as many places will not allow bare feet.
The protocol is to take off your shoes at the entrance area inside the doorway and slip on the indoor-use slippers provided and then neatly place your shoes either in the shoebox or to the side out of the way. When inside, it's customary to remove your slippers when on the tatami mats or using the bathroom. Most places will have a separate pair of slippers in the restroom.
Bathing Etiquette—the Basics
Japan has a rich prevailing culture of bathing in hot springs, onsens, or public bathhouses called sentos. I spent 10 days driving around Kyushu, the third largest island, with several volcanoes and consequently many onsens. I experienced 3 different onsens and like any culture, there are some basic customs and manners that need to be observed. If you are shy about being naked, then stop reading now. Though most facilities have separate baths for male and female users, hot springs are enjoyed naked, and swimming suits are not allowed. However, you can bring a small towel into the bathing area, but not big enough to hide your privates!
You must wash your body with soap before entering the baths and if you have long hair, you must tie up your hair. You will be frowned upon if you do not follow these rules. The water in the baths can be very hot.
Cleaning your body is not the main aim of hot springs. In fact, it is the opposite. You are literally trying to “dirty” your body with the minerals coming from the earth.
Other rules - Talk quietly, no swimming, and no submerging of your head. Absolutely no tattoos are allowed (you will be asked to leave), so cover with a waterproof bandage if possible.
The Amazing Cleanliness
Japan is exceptionally clean, reflecting a culture deeply rooted in respect. There is a sense of communal responsibility to keep public areas clean for others, stemming from early years at school where students clean their classrooms and other school areas every day.
Safety
Japan ranks as one of the safest countries, with extremely low crime rates. It is also a country that values integrity, with cash found on the street handed to the police and with primary school children routinely commuting to school unsupervised.
Final Thoughts
Japan is a safe, clean and family-friendly country with a rich cultural heritage that eloquently integrates tradition and innovation. Full of juxtapositions, it is a delight to visit for the whole family. Personally, I think it is a better use of my Avios and BA Companion Voucher to book BA reward seats to somewhere like Japan, rather than say the USA, whose culture is similar to ours. I’m now planning a trip to India using RFF!
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Joanne
